Chromie
Recipe:
| Hook: | 20 - 8 curved shank hook (12 Partridge 15BN illustrated) |
| Thread: | 8/0 or 6/0 black |
| Body: | Silver holographic tinsel |
| Rib: | Red holographic tinsel (finish the body with Hard-As-Nails) |
| Thorax: | Peacock herl |
| Head: | Black metal bead |
| Gills: | White antron |
Uses:
The Chromie is meant to represent a deep lying chironomid pupa at the stage in its life cycle just before the ascent to the surface. At this time the pupa takes on a silvery appearance generated by gases that collect beneath its skin. Many pupae may reach this state at the same time and gather at the same depth in the water column; a scenario known as staging. This is when the Chromie is especially effective. This artificial is primarily a stillwater pattern, though along with a simple variation (see notes opposite) it can be fished in flowing water.
How to fish:
Fish the Chromie using either a static presentation or a quick strip, both methods in conjunction with a high floating strike indicator. You can also fish this pattern employing a traditional nymphing setup with a floating line, long leader and a figure-eight or hand twist retrieve - if you're prone to wrist problems just use a series of very short and slow pulls on the line. To fish deep using a hand twist or short pull retrieve, try a sink tip or intermediate slow sinker to keep the fly at the right depth.
For more details on fishing chironomids read Brian Chan's article »
Tying instructions:
Right-handed tyers see below, left-handed tyers see alternative sequence »
 | 1. Place a black metal bead on the hook, then place the hook in the vice as shown. Start the thread at the eye. |
 | 2. Tie in a small bunch of white Antron behind the eye. Use a minimal amount of thread wraps to secure the material then remove the waste. |
 | 3. Make a slim whip finish. Cut the tying thread and add a drop of head cement. |
 | 4. Move the bead into position and start the thread again immediately behind it. |
 | 5. Catch in the holographic tinsel rib. Keep it in tension as you wrap the thread toward the bend. |
 | 6. Run the thread to the point indicated keeping the rib material from twisting round the shank. Return the thread to behind the eye. |
 | 7. Catch in the silver Flashabou behind the bead and then cut away the waste ends. |
 | 8. Wrap the Flashabou to the rear of the body then return it to behind the bead. This ensures a good solid silver base to the body. |
 | 9. Counter-wind the rib making firm wraps that sit down on top of the silver Flashabou. |
 | 10. Complete the ribbing and cut away the waste material. Make a whip finish and cut the tying thread once again. |
 | 11. Apply a good coat of Hard As Nails. Spread the varish evenly and avoid overloading the fly. Applying the varnish now avoids later having to work gingerly around the peacock herl. If you prefer a heavier varnish layer, add another coat after the first has dried. |
 | 12. When the varnish is dry, start the tying thread again and catch in a couple of peacock herls by their tips. The finest points of the herls can be snapped off first as these can be especially delicate and prone to breaking as you proceed with the dressing. |
 | 13. For a more robust dressing twist the herl and thread together to form a rope. To make the pattern even more robust you may want to add a drop of cement to the base wraps behind the bead - wait for the cement to become tacky before wrapping the herl. |
 | 14. Make two turns of the peacock herl rope. Then allow the rope to unravel. Trim away the waste herl before making a three turn whip finish immediately behind the bead. |
 | 15. Adding cement to the thread in the last stage can help avoid daubing cement over the peacock herl (See notes). However, if you're happy adding the head cement now then do so. You should end up with a fly looking something like this. |